Wed 6 to Tues 12 July - Berwick, Lindisfarne, Ednam, Craven Arms, Gloucester and SURPRISE! and on to Oban

Wednesday 6 July:  Highlights – Hadrian’s Wall, Vindolanda, Roman Museum, dinner with Berwick supporters club!

We awoke reasonably early and were on the road before breakfastime (well early for us!).  Our first thoughts were to go straight to Berwick and explore this wonderful old walled city – it is steeped in history and there is so much to explore.

And the WE HIT THE WALL! Hadrian’s Wall that is! Renoir had never explored it and it has been nearly 20 years since I was fascinated by its charm so as we had the time we thought we would enjoy just a brief waylay. Huh! Try and briefly waylay anything when you start exploring such a rich history!

Firstly we explored Housesteads – the best preserved site of a Roman garrison along the Wall. Naturally it was on the top of a hill – I mean where else would you position a fort! Checkout FB for the pix of my beserker husband climbing over the fort! The remains of this fort are truly amazing – it was used nearly 2000 years ago and you can still see the lavatory flushing system, the granary for their foodstuffs, and the remains of the barracks. Naturally the place was crawling with school kids who, of course, have absolutely NO IDEA how fortunate they are – but then I guess none of us did either when we were at museums and stuff.

Anyway, as we were on top of a hill with a fabulous view we had advance warning on the oncoming weather, and it looked nasty. So back to the car and on to Vindolanda.

How to describe Vindolanda? It was both a Roman fort and a township. The township was a vicus – which meant it was self-governed. The site itself is incredibly rich in archeological artifacts because apparently the buildings were built with untreated timber (even the bark was still on it) so the timber only lasted about 8 years – when it came time to repair them, the logs were just sawn off at ground level, then bracken and other vegetation was put down over the existing floor and more timber erected on top of that. This created an anaerobic (no air) environment which protected everything really well, hence the shoes and fabrics, and other artefacts being in such a good condition.  

The most exiting discovery to date are the documents that have been unearthed. These are tablets and a provide a wonderful day to day guide as to how the garrison and villages were run, for instance how many soldiers on a particular day were in the garrison, how many were sick, absent or travelling; the food stores; soldiers’ pay records. But one of the most treasured finds was an invitions from one high-born lady to another – although a scribe had written the original invitation, the birthday girl had added something in her own handwriting to the bottom on the invitation – and is the only example of a women’s handwriting from that period in Western Europe! Even though the weather was inclement, we still walked around the excavations  - being on site is open to anyone – I don’t mean you can just turn up and dig, but you can register and be part of the crew that gets all muddy and filthy and excited about finding a piece of glass, or something more special! That is certainly on the cards for our next visit.

After Vindolanda we travelled down the road a bit to the Roman Museum, also run by the Vindolanda trust. We didn’t have a lot of time to enjoy the exhibits, but did get to enjoy the main reason  for our visit, which was to see a 30min film about life in a Roman town and garrison such as Vindolanda. It was called “An Eagles’ Eye View” and has won a swathe of awards – not surprising as the graphics were excellent. Using actors and following a short story line it recreated what life would have been like for a solider, duty, food, sleeping, training and fighting.  We were in the middle of a bunch of school kids (with much harrumping going on from Renoir!) but they quietened down when the film started and stayed quiet throughout, so that gives you an idea of how gripping it was!

After the Roman Museum it was a lickety-split trip to Berwick and dinner with the  Berwick Rangers supporters club. We were due to be collected at 650pm and got to the hotel at 6pm – enough time for a bit of quiet before dinner. Alan collected us right on time, and took us to The Salmon for dinner. A couple of drinks first so Renoir and the club could catch up on the gossip, then at 730pm Rodelle, husband Derek, son Warren, ,Alan, Renoir and I moved into the restaurant section for dinner.

What can I say – Scottish salmon is just delicious! Lemony cream sauce, lots of veggies, and fab chips (only had about four, and believe me, I was really using willpower for that!) Renoir had camembert, wrapped in parma ham, dipped in tempura batter and fried – it smelt fabulous and tasted even better!  Pub food here is truly outstanding, and I haven’t been disappointed yet, but am usually delighted by the choice, and innovation of the menu.

We left at closing and crashed from a great height, ready to explore Berwick the next day.      

Thursday 7 July – Lindisfarne to Ednam

It wasn’t the best of weather, but we weren’t going to let that stop us so ever-onward to Lindisfarne, the Holy Island which is just off the coast of Berwick – well of the coast when the tide is in, but a 20min drive when the tide is out!

The car park is down the road from the village – the village population is only 150, the streets are narrow and not really geared for a massive number of cars that visit every year. But it’s a quick walk, or an even quicker shuttle bus ride (and the weather was foul so bus it was!) Straight to the castle, and entered a different world. The furnishing were a mixed bag and gave an idea of what the mediaeval life would have been like for the soldiers (on the bottom coupleo floors) and then what life would have been like for more recent inhabitants (early 20^th century).  It was run really well, and full of historical explanations in all the rooms.

By the time we reached the battlements on top, the weather had cleared a bit and we were able to take some ok pix which give an idea of the spectacular view - Henry VIII really chose a brilliant location for a castle as you would have had loads of warning if any marauders were on the way. Then we explored the lime kilns and the walled garden, the weather staying fine for all our outdoor meanderings.

We then cruised into town for a cup of tea and, bliss, a really yummy cheese scone! Then a look at the shops, but amazingly for us, no purchases! The shuttle bus ended up being about 3minutes early and we missed the return journey (for which we had already paid!) but the walk was quiet short and gave us the chance to buy some farm fresh raspberries for dinner with Jeff and Jacqueline.   The drive back could not have been more different than the drive in, and if anyone had told me the afternoon would become as beautiful and fine as it was – well I would never have believed it possible after the driving rain we’d had coming over!

Thursday 8 July: Dnner with Jeff’n’Jax

We had met Jeff and Jacqui at Spirit House in Yandina on the Sunshine Coast when we did the Thai cooking course Jenny B gave us for a wedding gift. Thanks Jen, who would ever have thought we would be enjoying more outcomes from that course on the other side of the world!

The drive over to join Jeff and Jacqui was along gorgeous country lanes alongside beautiful farms and meadows – and the weirdest weather – the sky was overcast, yet the sun was blaring and we needed to wear sunnies, but the rain was beating onto the windscreen. The as soon as we crossed the border into Scotland, it was fine! This country is just like one big Melbourne!

Jeff and Jacqui own Edenwater, a boutique guest house with four uniquely different rooms, all with magnificent views onto their garden and the surrounding countryside. Edenwater is an old sandstone two story building, lovingly lived in and renovated to capture both the traditional beauty of bygone days and the comfort of contemporary needs. Jeff and Jacqui are such wonderful hosts, and as they had no guests we were able to enjoy a magnificent meal (cooked by Jacqui), some wonderful wine (provided by Jeff) and fabulous conversation (from all of us!) We arrived about 715pm, and wandered the garden, as the it was still so light.

Dinner was about 830pm, and Jacqui had done a wonderful Scottish/Thai fusion – beef marinated in palm sugar and other spices, with a dipping sauce, a wonderfully light potato rosti, and a selection of greens – truly delicious. A cheese platter, with a washed rind soft cheese, a Shropshire blue and a hard sheep’s cheese and a beautiful bunch of grapes was next on the menu, then ice cream and fresh raspberries for desert, with a late harvest wine followed by coffee.  We finally staggered to be about 115am – and had chatted and laughed all night.

We fell into bed and I swear, it felt like we were sleeping on a cloud – and we slept very soundly until it was time for breakfast the next morning.  So spoilt!

Friday 10 July: Edenwater to Gloucester

We knew today would be a big driving day – Edenwater in Ednam is 30mins southwest from Berwick which is on the coast. Gloucester is almost on the Welsh border, so we were up and gone by about 930am (after a good cooked breakfast – thanks again Jacqui!)

We travelled down past some  of Hadrian’s Wall, and then turned southwest to travel across the Pennines – a beautiful mountain range that I remember reading about in Enid Blyton books like the Secret Seven and Famous Five when I was younger! We stopped at a lovely little pub for a bit to eat about 1230pm, it was by a river and I can’t quite remember the township’s name but the pub was The Elk’s Head, and there we caught up on the latest news on the News Of the World scandal. You may have heard about it – it is alleged that some reporters on Rupert Murdoch’s News of the World (NoW – and the biggest selling newspaper in the world apparently) has been accused of hacking into the mobile and land line phones of a number of people. This of course has happened before – you may remember a very intimate and personal conversation between Prince Charles and Camilla Parker-Bowles as she was then, being broadcast, but a blind eye has been turned to the practice since then. Well a young 14 year old girl disappeared in about 2002, and apparently a private investigator hacked into her phone and deleted messages during the police investigation into her disappearance, giving her family, and the police, hope that she was alive (apparently they deleted messages because the voicemail  was full and they were trying to get a copy of the any of the personal messages being left by her family). A truly heinous activity and one that has blown up completely now that it has been discovered that thousands of phone numbers have been discovered, from the McCanns (whose daughter Madelaine disappeared in Portugal); to the royal family; to the families of soldiers killed on duty in Afganhistan and Iraq; to the families of those killed in the London terrorist bombings of 7/7/05 – and of course a number of so called celebrities.

Murdoch closed the paper and  the last issue was last Sunday 10 July , but the bigger piece of pie he is interested in is full control of BSkyB – and this looks like it might have put the kybosh on that. Yay I say!!!

Anyway, we were in The Elk’s’ Head weren’t we? A nice light lunch and then we set out and heard on the radio that the M6, and then later the M5, were turning into car parks due to some serious accidents. No problem we thought, we’ll just take an A road rather than an M road. Well I swear this added another three hours to our trip – not helped that we missed a sign in Wigan (because a bus was parked across it) that directed us to the correct road and ended up circumnavigating Wigan twice – and you know what? Wigan is just not that interesting!

So back on the A49, but it was Friday afternoon, and traffic was horrendous wherever we went, so we just coped really!  We aimed for Shrewesbury, and thought a quiet investigation of Brother Cadfael land would be fun the next morning, but Shrewesbury was just booked out – no-one could tell us why, so on we ploughed until we found a little place called Craven Arms,  and a lovely little pub called Stokesay Castle Hotel.

The first thing we noticed was the smile Harriet gave us on arriving. After 11+ hours travelling we really welcomed that greeting! They had rooms available – even better! And food was still on and the bar was open – it just couldn’t get any better could it?

Well, how about a French chef in the kitchen, who made the best croque monsieur that Renoir has ever had – in or out of France! And the French Onion soup – I have never had anything like it, real  farmhouse style with great lumps of bread and melted cheese on top (my pills are working a treat!)

It was just wonderful to stop – we took over a table that could seat 6, and read the paper, had a drink, enjoyed dinner and just generally relaxed until time to sleep, a quiet room and a comfy bed.

Saturday 9 July – Craven Arms to Gloucester

We awoke and were downstairs for breakfast about 730am. Steve, host and hotelier, prepared brekkiw and we both had something light, and spent the morning updating various travelogues and downloading pictures etc..  He was also kind enough to let us use his laundry – it was only one load but it makes all the difference to be able to keep on top of the washing when travelling the way we are – there is nothing appealing about spending a half or most of a day in a Laundromat in some little city or town when there is exploring to be done!  

We weren’t able to check into the Travelodge in Gloucester until 3pm, and were reluctant to get to Gloucester to look around because we didn’t want to accidently come across Christine, Renoir’s cousin and the reason we were in Gloucester at this point in our trip.

We checked in and I crashed for about an hour and a half, while Renoir went to check out the local area. We stayed at Gloucester Quays, which is where the long boats (like canal boats) are all kept and is an old docks area that has been reinvigorated with high density house and outlet shops, and they’ve done a beautiful job, utilizing all the old warehouses to maintain the history, but make the area more contemporary.

We were due on the King Arthur about 7pm, and were a tiny bit late but not enough to spoil the surprise. Jim had organized this wonderful two level long boat, complete with bar and dining downstairs, and music and dancing upstairs – and the weather stayed fine!  

We travelled up the river Severn (pron seven) starting in the loch. The River Severn is tidal, and is the site of the longest surfboard ride on record!  Much dancing and drinking and fun was had, and Christine and Jim’s family and friends were very welcoming, so a good time was had by all (and mostly Christine who was very surprised – always nice when a surprise works isn’t it!)

We docked about 1015-ish and all made our way home, with many of us catching up for the ‘official’ bbq the next afternoon.

Sunday 10 July: Gloucester

Ok, ok, I admit it, I am unable to stay next to an outlet complex without having to go shopping. In my defence I will say that I deliberately didn’t pack things that I would  need in warmer weather because a) we knew our bags were over-weight when we left Brisbane,  b) I knew I wouldn’t need warmer things until later in the trip (and when you consider we got snowed on in Stockholm I wasn’t far wrong!) and c) I know I buy new things! But I was reasonably restrained, and bought either things I don’t already have at home or things that will be replacements. That is my story and I am sticking to it!

We did have ‘the great glasses hunt’ first thing tho. Renoir realised on Saturday night when we got home that his reading glasses must have falled out of his jacket pocket on the boat – so first thing he went to the docks to find the boat and see if any one was aboard. No such luck. Then I looked for his spare pair in the car – no luck. Then he looked in the suitcases – no luck. Eventually the spare pair was found in the car – and this was after we had both searched – so both of us were suffering from domestic blindness! Any even better, his new pair were found the previous  night and were returned to him when we arrived at the bbq later that day.

We got to Christine and Jim’s new home about 3pm and gave Chrissy her birthday gift. We had wanted to get her something very Australian, and on our way back from the Discworld Convention had found a really pretty opal. As well, unfortunately all her jewellery had been stolen earlier this year, so we had a ring that had belonged to Flora, as well as the opal, for her gift. And then Renoir did something that only he could think of – he bought her a title – she is now a Lady of Lochabar! (He is a laird, and I am also a lady!).

Lochabar is a Scottish land holding that, some years ago fell on hard times. It is a massive tract of land that holds custody of the most ancient forests in the UK, and some amazing wildlife. So to help preserve its heritage, the owners sell off small plots of land – these are about 3metres square. You get a title – and its official, you can change all your official documents if you want to, and fishing rights to certain parts of the river. She was delighted!

Given the drive the next day (Gloucester to Oban) we thought a reasonably early night a good idea and returned to the hotel about 630pm for a good sleep and a reorganization of packing.

We do this regularly – go through what clothes we might need every few days and pack these into a small carry bag, and leave the large suitcases in the car. This saves lugging the big stuff in and out of the car all the time and is working a treat!

Monday 11 January – Gloucester to Oban

There’s not a long you can say about a long drive up the M5 then M6 other than, mercifully, it was accident free and we didn’t need to explore any A roads. The trip was about the same distance as the previous Friday, but only took us two thirds the time!  We didn’t drive all the way to Oban, as we passed Glasgow late in the day and, even though driving that far was possible, it may have proved difficult a) finding accommodation and b) we wanted to make sure we got to eat dinner.

We finally pulled over the night in a gorgeous little town called Lochearn Head – the villageof Loch Earn, and the head of the loch! The pub was right across the road, and the hills soar up on the other side, with houses nestled in the glens at the bottom. It was green, green, green and the clouds were settling on the top of the hills an drifting in and out of them – it was just divine.  

The pub folk were friendly and the food wholesome. Salmon again for me (I miss my fish’n’chips nights!!!) and chips (again, just a few but pubs over here do the BEST chips!) and Renoir went native straightaway – chicken breast stuffed with black pudding, wrapped in bacon and baked. The gravy was so good he even ate a vegetable so as not to miss it! The only downside was a group comprising two families who felt the need to spread themselves variously across three different tables throughout the evening and despite the place being nearly empty they boisterously sat next to us, disturbing our quietude.

Still, the room was comfy, Renoir was able to have black pudding (which I tried – it’s like a coarse pate) and potato cakes for brekkie the next morning, before we headed off to Oban.